Sunday, 30 May 2010

Day 23 - Tongue to Thurso - blue skies, blue sea, golden beaches ..

After a good meal and night in the Tongue Hotel we woke to clear blue skies. We set off on what we knew was going to be a hard morning in terms of climbing, but the views in every direction were just amazing. We passed rivers,Lochs, beaches and mountains. Solitary houses and small hamlets. Houses with the most amazing outlooks and it stayed clear, though the wind did remind us that it didn't follow the rules. We finally got to Thurso about 4.30 after a very good day, not as hard as we thought and only 20 or so miles to do tomorrow. An excellent B&B with views to the Orkneys and the Old Man. Looking forward to tomorrow.

Saturday, 29 May 2010

Day 22 - Lairg to Tongue - The north coast of Scotland

Lairg was a very small village, but had all we needed and we managed to get on the road reasonably early. We were very soon on the A road, single track with passing places. A long gentle climb up to Crask Inn. Then it rained all the way down to Altnaharra. We saw the hotel and decided to go in. There were 2laden Thorn bikes outside.(The tandem is a Thorn) They were just starting going south. Shortly after 3 other cyclists arrived, they were like us nearly finished. As we left another 6 arrived. The rain continued most of the way to Tongue. The landscape had opened out, some high forbidding looking hills, trees had gone. Evidence of peat cutting was visible along the route. Could not find anywhere for lunch, the sun failed us today so we resorted to the bivvy tent. We finally saw the sea loch Kyle of Tongue and rolled down to the hotel. Great room, hot bath and complemenary sherry, followed by a very enjoyable meal.

Friday, 28 May 2010

Day 21 - Tain to Lairg - a shorter day to allow a more leisurely pace

A later start due to our chatty hosts. The rain started as we left. Today was planned as a shorter easier day and so it proved to be. We avoided the bridge with steps at Invershin, though we did stop and walk over the bridge. A footbridge bolted onto the side of the rail bridge. On to the Shin Falls. The centre is owned by the guy who owns Harrods. A sit down lunch and the onto Ferrycroft visitors centre. Then an early finish in Lairg. Have now booked Sundays accommodation, our last night before we meet up with Ben for our return.

Day 20 - Inverness to Tain - no ferry, so through Dingwall

A wet morning in Inverness. Over the Kessock Bridge, some stunning views, even in the rain. Found some new cycle routes which ironed out some of the meanderings of the original route. It stayed wet, one shower after another most of the day, except a sunny spell for our lunch break. The single cyclist who was camping that we met a couple of days ago stopped and chatted. He was on his last 2 days of his tour and would be heading home the following day. Got to Tain and found a B&B. It was run by an elderly couple, yes older than us, from Yorkshire. They were unbelievably chatty but very pleasant. A good meal at The Royal Hotel.

Wednesday, 26 May 2010

Day19 - Kincraig to Inverness - another pass another day

We left Kincraig and sped along a B road to Aviemore. A lot of development here since my last visit. 30 years ago by my reckoning. Much more snow visible on Cairngorm. A strong v.cold wind, did I mention a HEADWIND. The climb up to Slochd Pass was gradual and we made good time. After that the route was mainly downhill, but it did get colder, we had layers and layers on, winter gloves and fleece headbands. Stopped at Clava Cairns, a 5000 year old burial site. Then off to Inverness. As we got close we had hail, just to bolster our spirits. Found a B&B close to the town centre which should mean a choice of restaurants for tonight. We have discovered the Cromarty ferry is not running as it is not fully built yet. A pity as it is the smallest UK ferry carrying just 4 cars. Alternate route is no further and looks flatter, much to Ann's relief.

Tuesday, 25 May 2010

Day 18 - Blair Atholl to Kincraig, near Aviemore

After a good meal at Blair Atholl Arms, which had a magnificent galleried dining room. A good nights sleep we were ready for the Drumochter Pass. Ann had read it was a 16 mile ascent. This proved to be true, but at such a gentle gradient that we got there with an average speed of 8mph. It was a very remote, cold and dramatic. At times we could see virtually no evidence of man at all. Very big open scenes, snow still lingering on gullies and north facing slopes. After the ascent we had the descent, which was almost as long and took us most of the way to Kingussie. We made such good time we decided to carry on a bit further in order to cut down tomorrows mileage. We have a lovely B&B , with views over the loch and The Cairngorms behind.

Monday, 24 May 2010

Day 17 - Killin to Blair Atholl - more sun and views

The first part of today's ride was along Loch Tay, some remnants of snow on the higher peaks and lots of glorious views, punctuated by quiet leafy lanes. We commented that up to now, from Lands End, we had not seen another tandem. What do they say about buses? Well 2 tandems zoomed past us on a long downhill(for them) and both heavily laden as we are. later on we saw another tandem and they waved a we sped past them. After Aberfeldy the valley opened out and the views changed, much more farmland but wonderful colours. Bluebells everywhere. Pitlochry seemed small but we managed a cappuccino and cake before we set off on the final few miles to Blair Atholl.
I have added more photos below.